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Çѱ¹ÀÚ¿ø½Ä¹°ÇÐȸ / v.18, no.3, 2005³â, pp.417-423
ÂÊ »ýÁó¾×À» ÀÌ¿ëÇÑ Ãµ¿¬¿°»ö¿¡¼­ ¿°»öÁ¶°ÇÀÌ °ßÁ÷¹°ÀÇ ¿°»öƯ¼º¿¡ ¹ÌÄ¡´Â ¿µÇâ
( Effect of Dyeing Conditions on Dyeing Characteristics in Silk during Natural Dyeing Using the Raw Juice of Indigo Plants )
À±Àç±æ;ÀåÈ«±â;ÇãºÏ±¸;¹ÚÀ±Á¡; ÁøÁÖ»ê¾÷´ëÇб³ ¿ø¿¹Çаú;(ÁÖ)¼¼³ëÄÚ;(ÁÖ)¼¼³ëÄÚ;¿ø±¤´ëÇб³ »ý¸íÀÚ¿ø°úÇдëÇÐ;
 
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ÂÊ »ýÁó¾×ÀÇ ¿°»öÁ¶°Ç¿¡ µû¸¥ °ßÁ÷¹°ÀÇ ¿°»ö¼ºÀ» Á¶»çÇϱâ À§ÇØ ¿°¾×¿Âµµ, ¿°»ö½Ã°£, ¿°¾×³óµµ ¿°¾×ÀÇ pH, ¸Å¿°Á¦¸¦ ´Þ¸®ÇÏ¿© °ßÁ÷¹°À» ¿°»öÇÏ¿´´Ù. ¿°¾×ÀÇ ¿Âµµ¿¡ µû¸¥ °ßÁ÷¹°ÀÇ Ç¥¸é»öÀº ¿Âµµ°¡ ³·À»¼ö·Ï b°ªÀÌ ÀÛ¾ÆÁ® $-5^{circ}C$¿Í »ó¿Â¿¡¼­´Â ³ì»ö(G) °è¿­·Î, $40^{circ}C$ À̻󿡼­´Â ³ìȲ»ö(GY) °è¿­·Î ¹ß»öµÇ¾úÀ¸¸ç, ¿°Âø³óµµ´Â ¿Âµµ°¡ ³ôÀ»¼ö·Ï ³ô¾Ò´Ù. ¿°»ö½Ã°£Àº Ç¥¸é»ö¿¡ ¿µÇâÀ» ¹ÌÄ¡Áö ¾Ê¾ÒÀ¸³ª ¿°»ö½Ã°£ÀÌ ±æ¼ö·Ï ¿°Âø³óµµ´Â Áõ°¡ÇÏ¿´´Ù. ¿°¾×³óµµ¸¦ $1%,;2%,;3%,;4%$·Î Á¶Á¤ÇÏ¿© °ßÁ÷¹°À» ¿°»öÇßÀ» ¶§´Â û·Ï»ö(BG) °è¿­·Î ¹ß»öµÇ¾úÀ¸³ª $5%$¿¡¼­´Â B°è¿­·Î ¹ß»öµÇ¾ú°í, ¿°Âø³óµµ´Â ¿°¾×ÀÇ ³óµµ°¡ ³ôÀ»¼ö·Ï Áõ°¡ÇÏ¿´´Ù. ¿°¾×ÀÇ pH¿¡ µû¸¥ °ßÁ÷¹°ÀÇ Ç¥¸é»öÀº pH 7ÀÌÇÏ¿¡¼­´Â G°è¿­À», pH 8¿¡¼­´Â ³ìȲ»ö(GY)À¸·Î, pH 9¿¡¼­´Â ȲÀû»ö(YR) °è¿­À» ³ªÅ¸³Â´Ù. ¿°Âø³óµµ´Â pH°¡ ³ôÀ»¼ö·Ï ³·¾ÆÁ³´Ù. ¸Å¿°Ã³¸®´Â °ßÁ÷¹°ÀÇ Ç¥¸é»ö¿¡ ¿µÇâÀ» ¹ÌÃÆÀ¸¸ç, ¿°Âø³óµµµµ Áõ°¡½ÃÄ×´Ù.
In order to investigate effects of dyeing conditions on the dyeing characteristics in silk during natural dyeing using indigo plants , various dyeing conditions including the temperature of dyeing solution, dyeing period, the concentration and pH of dyeing solution and mordants were treated. As the temperature of dyeing solution decreases low, the color of silk surface showed lower b value. The color of silk surface showed G line when the dyeing solution was $-5^{circ}C$ and room temperature and GY line at more than $40^{circ}C$. Coloring degree increased high as the temperature increases. Dyeing period showed no effect on the surface color, but as dyeing period was longer the coloring degree increased. When the concentration of dyeing solution was $1~4%$, the silk was colored to BG line and $5%$ to B line. The coloring degree increased as the concentration of dyeing solution more increased. The pH of dyeing solution sensitively affected coloring of silk. The pH lower than 7 showed G line, pH 8 showed GY line and pH 9 showed YR line. Coloring degree decreased as pH was more increases. Surface color of silk was different according to the kinds of natural mordants and coloring degree was increased by the natural mordants.
 
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Çѱ¹ÀÚ¿ø½Ä¹°ÇÐȸÁö / v.18, no.3, 2005³â, pp.417-423
Çѱ¹ÀÚ¿ø½Ä¹°ÇÐȸ
ISSN : 1226-3591
UCI : G100:I100-KOI(KISTI1.1003/JNL.JAKO200507523330356)
¾ð¾î : Çѱ¹¾î
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