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Çѱ¹¼öÀÚ¿øÇÐȸ / v.37, no.6, 2004³â, pp.461-466
¼âÆÄ´ë¿¡¼­ Á¤ÇöÆÄÀÇ ¼âÆÄ
( Wave Breaking of Sinusoidal Waves in the Surf Zone )
ȲÁ¾±æ;±è¿µÅÃ;Á¶¿ë½Ä; ÇѾç´ëÇб³ ´ëÇпø Åä¸ñ°øÇаú;ÇѾç´ëÇб³ ´ëÇпø Åä¸ñ°øÇаú;ÇѾç´ëÇб³ °ø°ú´ëÇÐ Åä¸ñ°øÇаú;
 
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º» ¿¬±¸¿¡¼­´Â ¼âÆÄ´ë¿¡¼­ Á¤ÇöÆÄÀÇ ¼âÆÄ¿¡ ´ëÇØ ¼ö¸®¸ðÇü½ÇÇè°ú ¼öÄ¡¸ðÇü½ÇÇèÀ» ¼öÇàÇÏ¿´À¸¸ç, µÎ ½ÇÇè°á°ú¸¦ ºñ±³ÇÏ¿´´Ù. ¼öÄ¡ÇØ¼® ¸ðÇü¿¡¼­´Â Reynolds ¹æÁ¤½ÄÀ» Áö¹è¹æÁ¤½ÄÀ¸·Î »ç¿ëÇÏ°í ³­·ùÇØ¼®À» À§ÇØ $textsc{k}$-$varepsilon$ ¸ðµ¨À» Àû¿ëÇÏ¿´À¸¸ç, ÀÚÀ¯¼ö¸éº¯À§¸¦ ÃßÀûÇϱâ À§ÇØ VOF±â¹ýÀ» »ç¿ëÇÏ¿´´Ù. ¼ö¸®¸ðÇü½ÇÇè°ú ¼öÄ¡¸ðÇü½ÇÇè ¸ðµÎ µ¿ÀÏÇÑ ¼ö½É°ú Áֱ⸦ °¡Áú °æ¿ì, ÀÔ»çÆÄÀÇ ÆÄ°í°¡ Ä¿Áú¼ö·Ï ¼âÆÄ¹ß»ý ÁöÁ¡ÀÌ °æ»ç½ÃÀÛ ÁöÁ¡À¸·ÎºÎÅÍ °¡±î¿î À§Ä¡·Î À̵¿ÇÏ´Â °æÇâÀ» º¸¿´´Ù. ¶ÇÇÑ, ¼âÆÄ¹ß»ý½Ã ÆÄ°íºñ(H/H$_{0}$)´Â µ¿ÀÏÇÑ ¼ö½É°ú ÆÄ°í¸¦ °¡Áú °æ¿ì, ÁֱⰡ Ä¿Áú¼ö·Ï Áõ°¡ÇÏ´Â °æÇâÀ» º¸¿´´Ù.
This study presents a combined experimental and numerical effort to investigate wave breaking of sinusoidal waves in a surf zone. Numerical predictions are verified by comparing to laboratory measurements. The model solves the Reynolds equations and$textsc{k}$-$varepsilon$ models for the turbulence analysis. To track the free surface displacement, the volume of fluid method is employed. As the height of incident wave increases, the wave breaking occurs at a closer point of the slope in the numerical model and laboratory experiments with the same depth and period. When a wave breaking occurs, the ratio of wave height becomes larger, with the same wave height and depth, as the period increases.
 
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¼âÆÄ;Á¤ÇöÆÄ;VOF¹ý;$kappa$-$varepsilon$¸ðµ¨;wave breaking;sinusoidal wave;VOF method;$kappa$-$varepsilon$ model;
 
Çѱ¹¼öÀÚ¿øÇÐȸ³í¹®Áý / v.37, no.6, 2004³â, pp.461-466
Çѱ¹¼öÀÚ¿øÇÐȸ
ISSN : 1226-6280
UCI : G100:I100-KOI(KISTI1.1003/JNL.JAKO200411922350114)
¾ð¾î : Çѱ¹¾î
³í¹® Á¦°ø : KISTI Çѱ¹°úÇбâ¼úÁ¤º¸¿¬±¸¿ø
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ȸ»ç¼Ò°³ ±¤°í¾È³» ÀÌ¿ë¾à°ü °³ÀÎÁ¤º¸Ãë±Þ¹æÄ§ Ã¥ÀÓÀÇ ÇѰè¿Í ¹ýÀû°íÁö À̸ÞÀÏÁÖ¼Ò ¹«´Ü¼öÁý °ÅºÎ °í°´¼¾ÅÍ
   

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